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By Nishang Narayan
Published on June 20, 2025
In a historic win for Indian cuisine, Chef Vijay Kumar, hailing from a small village near Madurai in Tamil Nadu, has been awarded Best Chef: New York State at the prestigious James Beard Awards 2025. Held on Monday night in Chicago, the awards are regarded as one of the culinary world’s highest honours — and for the first time, an Indian restaurant and chef have claimed this top spot in New York.
Kumar is the Executive Chef of Semma, a restaurant that has revolutionized the Indian fine dining scene in New York. Part of the Unapologetic Foods group led by Chintan Pandya and Roni Mazumdar, Semma is unapologetically rooted in South Indian heritage, serving dishes rarely seen outside Tamil homes. From fiery nathai pirattal (snail curry) to eral thokku (spicy prawns) and foxtail millet khichdi, the food is bold, soulful, and deeply personal — served in clay pots and on banana leaves, often without cutlery.
Dressed in a traditional Veshti while accepting the award, Kumar shared an emotional moment:
“When I started cooking, I never thought a kid like me from Tamil Nadu could make it to a room like this. But the food I grew up with — food made with care and fire, with soul — is now taking the main stage. There’s no such thing as poor people’s food or rich people’s food. If it’s true, it’s powerful.”
Semma has consistently earned accolades since its opening in 2021. It holds a Michelin star for three years running and was crowned No. 1 on The New York Times’ 100 Best Restaurants list — a rare feat for an Indian restaurant. But for Kumar, this moment is about more than stars and rankings. It’s about representation, roots, and reclaiming pride in food once hidden in shame.
Growing up in Arasampatti, a village surrounded by paddy fields and coconut trees, Kumar recalls how dishes like snail curry were once considered farmer’s food — something to be kept from classmates. It wasn’t until culinary school that he saw escargot on a fine-dining menu and realized: “Maybe the world just hadn’t tasted our food yet.”
Originally dreaming of becoming an engineer, financial limitations led Kumar to pursue catering college — a twist of fate that launched a career celebrating the food of his ancestors. Today, with a James Beard medal and a mission that resonates from New York to Tamil Nadu, Chef Vijay Kumar has not only redefined fine dining but also carved a powerful space for heritage cuisine in global gastronomy.
Semma is no longer just a restaurant — it’s a revolution in flavour, identity, and cultural pride.
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